In my previous post, we explored the fundamental properties of natural gemstones and their implications for CAD/CAM jewellery design. Today, I'll guide you through the fascinating world of synthetic gemstones and treatments—an area where science meets artistry, and where modern jewellers must be especially knowledgeable. Understanding these materials and processes is crucial for creating ethical, durable, and commercially successful designs in today's evolving market.

The Science Behind Synthetic Gemstones

Synthetic gemstones represent one of the most remarkable achievements in materials science. Having closely studied their development for my book The CAD/CAM Jeweller, I find their creation process particularly relevant to digital designers who already work at the intersection of technology and traditional craft.

What many don't realise is that synthetic gems possess virtually identical chemical compositions and crystal structures to their natural counterparts. Unlike imitations that merely look similar, true synthetics share fundamental properties with natural stones. The earliest major breakthrough came in 1877 when Edmond Frémy created the first gem-quality emerald crystals, followed by Auguste Verneuil's revolutionary flame-fusion technique for synthetic rubies in 1902.

Today's production methods include:

• Flame-fusion (Verneuil): Primarily used for synthetic corundum, creating the distinctive "boule" form

• Flux-melt technique: Ideal for emeralds and other gems requiring slower crystal growth

• Hydrothermal growth: Mimics natural formation conditions for quartz and beryl varieties

• Advanced diamond synthesis: Using HPHT and CVD processes to create lab-grown diamonds

When designing settings for synthetic stones in CAD software, I've found that while the physical properties match natural gems, subtle differences in inclusions and growth patterns can influence aesthetic decisions. For instance, the curved growth lines in flame-fusion stones might inspire complementary curved elements in a setting.

Gemstone Treatments and Their Impact on CAD/CAM Design

Throughout my years teaching jewellery design, I've emphasised that understanding gemstone treatments is not just academic—it directly affects how we approach digital modelling and setting design. Many of the gemstones we work with have undergone some form of enhancement:

• Heat treatment: Common in sapphires, rubies, and tanzanite to enhance colour

• Fracture filling: Often used in emeralds and diamonds to improve clarity

• Oiling: Traditional treatment for emeralds that requires special consideration in setting design

• Irradiation: Used to create coloured diamonds and blue topaz

When designing in CAD, I always consider these treatments and their implications. For instance, fracture-filled stones require settings that avoid excessive pressure points. Oiled emeralds benefit from protective bezel settings that shield them from cleaning agents that might deplete the oil. In my CAD courses, I teach students to adjust their designs based on not just what a stone is, but how it has been treated.

Ethical Considerations for the Modern Jeweller

The digital jewellery revolution has coincided with increasing consumer awareness about ethical sourcing. Synthetic gemstones offer several advantages in this regard:

• Reduced environmental impact compared to mining

• No connection to conflict zones or exploitative labour practices

• Consistent quality and availability

• Affordability, making fine jewellery more accessible

However, proper disclosure is not merely ethical—it's a legal requirement in the UK and most countries. As I explain in detail in The CAD/CAM Jeweller, understanding the terminology is crucial: 'synthetic' or 'laboratory-created' are appropriate terms, while 'simulated' or 'imitation' refer to different materials entirely.

In my CAD/CAM design practice, I've embraced synthetics not just as economical alternatives but as materials with unique creative possibilities. For instance, the perfect clarity of synthetic corundum allows for more intricate undercutting in digital models than might be advisable with included natural stones.

Future Trends: CAD/CAM and Next-Generation Gemstones

As production techniques evolve, we're seeing the development of synthetic gemstones with qualities that go beyond what's found in nature—unique colour combinations, optical effects, and even customised internal features. This presents exciting opportunities for CAD/CAM designers who can create settings specifically engineered to highlight these novel characteristics.

The younger generation of consumers is increasingly accepting of synthetic gemstones, particularly when paired with innovative designs. I predict that the combination of advanced CAD/CAM techniques and high-quality synthetics will define a significant segment of the fine jewellery market in coming years.

Conclusion

Whether working with natural, synthetic, or treated gemstones, the modern CAD/CAM jeweller needs a comprehensive understanding of gemstone properties and origins. This knowledge informs every aspect of digital design—from the thickness of prongs to the clearance beneath a stone, from the angle of facet-aligned bezels to the overall structural integrity of the piece.

Throughout my career teaching digital jewellery design, I've found that students who master both the technical aspects of CAD software and the fundamentals of gemmology consistently produce the most innovative, beautiful, and commercially successful work.

Expand Your Knowledge

If you're looking to deepen your understanding of gemstone properties and their application in digital jewellery design, consider exploring my comprehensive CAD/CAM courses, where we cover these topics in practical, hands-on detail. For a complete reference, my book The CAD/CAM Jeweller provides in-depth guidance on integrating gemmological knowledge with digital design practices.

About the Author

Hamed Arab is a leading authority in modern jewellery design and production. As the author of "The CAD/CAM Jeweller," the definitive reference book for digital jewellery design, Hamed has trained countless professionals in the art and science of CAD/CAM jewellery. With decades of experience in the industry, he combines traditional craftsmanship knowledge with cutting-edge digital techniques to advance the field of jewellery design.